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| Acacia farnesiana extract A fragrant extract from a type of acacia tree. Typically used in perfumes. |
| Acacia senegal Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but that is used primarily as a thickening agent. |
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| Accutane Generic name: isotretinoin. A prescription-only drug derived from vitamin A, and which is taken orally. It essentially stops the oil production in sebaceous glands (the oil-producing structures of the skin) and literally shrinks these glands to the size of a baby's. This prevents sebum (oil) from clogging the hair follicle, mixing with dead skin cells, and rupturing the follicle wall to create an environment where a bacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive, which can result in pimples or cysts. Normal oil production resumes when treatment is completed, and the sebaceous glands slowly begin to grow larger again, but rarely as large as they were before treatment. "Because of its relatively rapid onset of action and its high efficacy with reducing more than 90% of the most severe [acne] inflammatory lesions, Accutane has a role as an effective treatment in patients with severe acne that is recalcitrant to other therapies". However, Accutane is controversial for many reasons, principally because of its most insidious side effect: It has been proven to cause severe birth defects in nearly 90% of the babies born to women who were pregnant while taking it. Other commonly reported, although temporary, side effects of Accutane include dry skin and lips, mild nosebleeds (your nose can get really dry for the first few days), hair loss, aches and pains, itching, rash, fragile skin, increased sensitivity to the sun, headaches, and peeling palms and hands. More serious, although much less common, side effects include severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, changes in mood, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, decreased night vision, bowel problems, persistent dryness of eyes, calcium deposits in tendons, an increase in cholesterol levels, and yellowing of the skin. |
| Acerola fruit extract An antioxidant that may also have some skin lightening effects. |
| Acetyl glucosamine An agent that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective for wound healing. Some studies indicate that acetyl glucosamine used topically helps reduce visible fine lines and wrinkles. |
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| Acetyl glyceryl ricinoleate Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. |
| Acetyl hexapeptide-3 Also known as Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. Commonly found in products marketed as "Botox alternatives." Acetyl hexapeptide-3 inhibits the reactions that cause muscles to move or contract. This helps reduce deep wrinkles and lines on the forehead and around the eyes. |
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| Acetylated castor oil Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. |
| Acetylated hydrogenated cottonseed glyceride Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. |
| Acetylated lanolin Emollient derived from lanolin. |
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| Acetylated palm kernel glycerides Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. |
| Acid The word "acid" comes from the Latin acidus, meaning "sour." All acids are sour to some degree. Acidity is found in many natural ingredients such as wine (tartaric acid), lemon juice (citric acid), sour-milk products (lactic acid), and apples (malic acid). When used in skin care products, acids-such as wine and lemon juice-are natural exfoliants because they break down the cements that hold dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Acids have a pH lower than 7. Water has a pH of 7. Human skin has an average pH of 5.5. This acidity is part of our skin's natural protection from harmful bacteria. |
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| Active ingredient The active ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that must adhere to specific regulations mandated by the FDA. Active ingredients must be listed first on an ingredient label. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients are considered to have a pharmacological altering effect on skin, and these effects must be documented by scientific evaluation and approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and benzoyl peroxide. |
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| Adenine A component of DNA that carries genetic information to the cell. |
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| Age spot There is no such thing as an "age spot." The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the characteristic small ones on the hands, arms, and face are caused by sun damage. These are possibly indications of pre-cancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes. |
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| AHA Acronym for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin. AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycan content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid. |
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| Alfalfa extract Can be an antioxidant in skin care products. |
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| Algae Extract Firming properties, anti-inflammatory properties |
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| All-trans retinoic acid Active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova. |
| Allantion Soothes and softens while rejuvenating skin. |
| Allantoin By-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant. |
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| Almond oil Oil extracted from the seeds of almonds and used as an emollient. |
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| Almond oil PEG-6 esters Used as emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics. |
| Aloe vera gel For centuries, the gel of the aloe vera plant has been used as a soothing topical remedy for minor burns and wounds. It continues to be popular for treating sunburns and other first-degree burns because it appears to speed healing. In addition, aloe vera gel is used to treat minor surface irritations, to reduce psoriasis symptoms, to lessen the painful effects of shingles, and to shrink warts. It even has a reputation as a beauty aid. |
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| Alpha Arbutin Alpha-Arbutin is a pure, water-soluble, biosynthetic active ingredient that promotes lightening and even skin tone on all skin types. Even in very low concentration, a-arbutin can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. Alpha Arbutin's inhibitory mechanism is different from that of arbutin and its intensity is 10 times as much as that of arbutin. A-Arbutin offers higher stability and efficancy than the B form in the related Beta-Arbutin. This leads to a skin lightening active that acts faster and more efficacy than existing single components, minimizes liver spots and reduces the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure. A skin lightening study on 80 Chinese women showed that an emulsion containing 1% Alpha-Arbutin results in a faster and more pronounced skin lightening effect after 1 month when compared with other commonly used mono-substances at 1% ea. |
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| Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide Used as an emollient and has water-binding properties. |
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| Alpha-hydroxy Acids (AHAs) Over-the-counter skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids) have become increasingly popular over the last five years. In the U.S. alone, there are over 200 manufacturers of skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids. Creams and lotions with alpha-hydroxy acids may help with fine lines, irregular pigmentation and age spots, and may help decrease enlarged pores. Side effects of alpha-hydroxy acids include mild irritation and sun sensitivity. For that reason, sunscreen also should be used every morning. To help avoid skin irritation with alpha-hydroxy acids, it is advisable to start with a product with concentrations of AHA (10-15 percent) Also, make sure you ease into it. You want to get your skin used to alpha-hydroxy acids, so you should only initially apply the skin care product every other day, gradually working up to daily application. |
| Alpha-Lipoic Acid You may have heard of alpha-lipoic acid as "the miracle in a jar" for its anti-aging effects. It's a newer, ultra-potent antioxidant that helps fight future skin damage and helps repair past damage. Alpha-lipoic acid has been referred to as a "universal antioxidant" because it's soluble in both water and oil, which permits its entrance to all parts of the cell. Due to this quality, it is believed that alpha-lipoic acid can provide the greatest protection against damaging free radicals when compared with other antioxidants. Alpha-lipoic acid diminishes fine lines, gives skin a healthy glow and boosts levels of other antioxidants, such as vitamin C. |
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| Alumina Aluminum oxide, used as an abrasive, thickening agent, and absorbent in cosmetics. |
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| Amyl cinnamate Fragrant component. |
| Amyl salicylate Fragrant component. |
| Amyris oil A fragrant oil. It has no other known benefit for skin. |
| Andiroba oil Extracted from the Brazilian mahogany tree; it has anti-inflammatory properties. |
| Anti-inflammatory Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness. |
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| Antibacterial Any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria, particularly in the case of bacteria that cause blemishes. |
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| Antioxidant An antioxidant is an agent the prevents or inhibits oxidation. In skin care products antioxidants may protect cells from the damaging effects of oxygen radicals caused by sunlight, and pollution. Any substance that impedes or slows free-radical damage by preventing the oxidative action of molecules is referred to as an "antioxidant." Many vitamins have antioxidant properties, including vitamins A, C, and E, as do amino acids such as methionine, L-cysteine, and L-carnitine; enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and ecatalase; and coenzymes such as alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10. Other antioxidant compounds include glutathione and methylsufonylsulfate. |
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| Apricot kernel A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant. |
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| Arachidic acid Derived from peanut oil and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. |
| Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil is a plant oil unusually rich in tocopherols. The most well known tocopherol is Vitamin E or alpha-tocopherol. Tocopherols are, next to carotene the most important antioxidants in the human cell and provide protection from the cell destroying free radicals. Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil prevents the skin from drying out and so helps to keep its flexibility by smoothing, softening and revitalizing the skin. The skin aging process resulting from the loss of elasticity is slowed down thus preventing wrinkles. |
| Arginine Amino acid that has antioxidant properties and can be helpful for wound healing. |
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| Aromatic Oils Has an anti-inflammatory effect. |
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| Ascorbic Acid Form of vitamin C that has antioxidant properties. This is the only form of vitamin C that you should look for in your skin care products. There are many skin care products on the market today that boast vitamin C derivatives as an ingredient (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate, for example), but L-ascorbic acid is the only useful form of vitamin C in skin care products. Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that is proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen as well, which is essential since your body's natural collagen production decreases as you age. Sun exposure will also accelerate the decrease in collagen. Studies have shown that vitamin C helps to minimize fine lines, scars, and wrinkles. |
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| Ascorbyl glucoside Form of vitamin C combined with glucose. It can function as an antioxidant. |
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| Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate Form of vitamin C that is considered stable and functions as an antioxidant and thickening agent. |
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| Aspalathus linearis Also known as the source of Rooibos Tea. It provides relief for skin problems like eczema, skin rash and acne. It also contains antioxidants which may protect against free radical damage. Recent research has shown that this tea contains a substance similar to superoxide dismutase, an antioxidant compound that is thought to retard the aging process. |
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| Astaxanthin Astaxanthin is ten times stronger than Beta-Carotene and up to 500 times stronger than vitamin E as an antioxidant. |
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| Avobenzone Synthetic sunscreen ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) that can protect against the sun's UVA rays. Avobenzone's ability to absorb ultraviolet light has led to its use in many "broad spectrum" sunscreens. Avobenzone has an absorption maximum of 357 nm. Avobenzone has been shown to degrade significantly in light, resulting in less protection over time. Photostabilizers like octocrylene can be used to reduce this degradation. |
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| Avocado oil Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. |
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| Azulene Chamomile extract used primarily as a coloring agent in cosmetics. It can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. See chamomile. |
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